I got the Tattoo


I am not a great lover of cities. I was already resigned: “stef, you will have to stay here for 2 weeks because of the Iranian visa …” (yes, it is Josephine) “… in the cities people are very different from the countryside; be ready to spend this time in solitude”.


I was ready. So, in my second day in Yerevan I focused on finding some parts for the bicycle. I was looking for this (exactly: 450 km without a spare inner tube):


… and I found a warm welcome, a coffe, small presents, many advidses about the routes and …Special-1

… a delicious lunch! These guys are just great!! … at Specialized are working really special people. Thank you my friends!

Special-2But it is not over. They even made me a little tour and together we visited the museum of the Armenian genocide.


Tsitsernakaberd, Armenian genocide memorial complex

Yes, because Armenia has its story as well … a sad story. Like all those that we still heard today … You get out of the museum with a boulder of lead on your chest and with the awareness that it will happen again … because we have not yet learned anything from the past.

I wanted to put my feet in another place where history took place. In spring 1962, the statue of Stalin was removed: one soldier killed and many injured. Wow! I try to imagine that day!… The statue was replaced by the Mother Armenia, designed by Ara Harutyunyan.

But between history and culture you need also a bit of leisure and pleasure. I needed to polish Morena and Priscilla … and when the beautician looks at your legs in this way there is a reason …


My legs looked like a pretty well done hairy Picasso: hematomas of all kinds of colors and shapes … and now, finally, I can exhibit THE Tattoo. It is well known by all the bike travelers: no matter how many times you wash it, he will be always there.


In these 4 weeks I noticed that the bicycle transmits a very dramatic message. People think that if you are on a bicycle: you are hungry, you are thirsty, you have no money, you are out of luck, you need tremendous help and you have to eat, eat and eat because you need a lot of energy.

The delightful family where I stay in Yerevan is taking care of me … I’m really feeling like part of the family and Gohar, Nelson and Areg give me all what I need: love and food.


Mmmm in my breakfast there is somenthing strange …

But I cannot stay in a city too long. Full of energy I left for 2 day excursion. Direction Geghard and Garni. Pure freedom! Pura vida!




Geghard monastery inside


Garni temple


Symphony of stones: pure music for the eyes


Garni-4I planned to stay there just 1 night, but I had 4 good reasons to stay one day more. 1) this (ok):


3 Gs Camping place … Sandra knows what do you need …

2) …this one made me melting down:

3Gs-23) …this one was really a good point:

3Gs-4BUT 4) most of all the beautiful people I met there. After one month finally I found other travelers … and what for travelers! Super interesting people, incredible stories and lots of laughter!

Yerevan-7No, in Yerevan I never was feeling alone. No, in Yerevan I never was bored. These 4 weeks “around” have been very intense. I have the impression that I already experienced so much. As precious crystals I keep all these memories in my mind and in my heart … and I hope to share many of them.

Wednesday I will receive the Iranian visa and on Thursday I will leave for the south Armenia. The show must go on!

Un abbraccio




  1. la verdad prima que miro tu recorrido por esos caminos y parece una película como de no creer que bueno seria saber que pensas a cada momento lo que estas haciendo contagia de emoción y de ganas de acompañarte con otra bicicleta al lado segun la historia el pueblo armenio muy sufrido y castigado que interesante conocer parte de su historia , te mando un beso segui asi que siempre estamos con vos.


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