Bright and clear in my mind were the marvelous scenarios, sounds, perfumes, spotted animals I experienced on the Pamir… my camera was exhausted. I showed you just very little … it is really difficult to select “the best pictures”, the pictures that can resume the variety of the beauties and people I enjoyed up there … impossible.
Easily I entered in Kyrgyzstan … country No. 7. The 20 km ride in the no man’s land and the descent to Sary Tash were a spectacle. There you can truly see “la vie en rose”, everything was pinkish, even the rivers!
I was physically tired and I needed to recover a couple of kg. I was happy to reach the next city Osh, BUT … come on! The Peak Lenin, the 7134 m high King of the Pamir is just at 85 km westward (170 km roundtrip) from my way … Will I come back here just to go up to the Peak Lenin Base Camp? Probably not. Until the last moment I was hesitant, but finally I decide to jump on my bicycle and to point toward west.
The Trans-Alay mountain range is awesome. It seems that the mountains are large dominant figures, The Guardians of the region all in a row for over 250 km. Approaching those mastodons I had the impression to enter in an enchanted place, enveloped by mystery … I felt almost in awe.
I camped on the bottom, before the ascent to the base camp. I was already dreaming a hot shower and a delicious soup. Yes, because I have been told that the base camp is really well equipped.
So, can you image my disappointment when the day after I discovered that everything was closed. Nobody there. Just me. A km before I saw a yurt, but here only me and some yaks. Well, not so bad! I will enjoy few days of pure rest by sleeping and walking around.
I pitched the tend at about 1,5 -2 km southward from the camp. The first night was snowing a bit, but the day after the sun was bright and hot. Pure relax! In the evening it started to snow again, but this time like in Cioss Prato the 21st December … In the distance I could ear landslides breaking away from the slopes and thunders … oh la la!
It was already 18:00. Out of question to ride down … But I couldn’t stay there. If it had fallen a lot of snow it would have been almost impossible to get out from there with the loaded bicycle … and I had to cross a river as well. I jumped out from my super comfy sleeping bag and I packed everything. I wanted to reach the base camp, where two days before I saw a sheltered place.
It was getting dark. I could ear the rustle of the falling snowflakes. I had no time to take my shoes and the 2 pair of socks off to cross the river … I close my eyes and to the sky I declared: “Fore the life!” and I walked in … ???What??? … “For the life”?!? Stef, you are so stupid! But at least I was laughing. My shoes have soaked with frozen water after o n e – t w o seconds. Finally completely wet I reached THE shelter:
Yes … a shitty place, but sometimes you don’t have an other choice … exactly: For the life! I pitched again my wet tend and I try to warm up my feet … a shot of vodka and inshallah the next day it will be not so bad.
I woke up very early … I could feel a sort of adrenaline in opening the zip of my tent and … woooooow M A G I C !
Only 10 cm of snow (fortunately!), but I had the impression that I woke up in another world. It was so pure, so quite … I could feel peace and joy! I was really happy to be there.
So started my adventure in Kyrgyzstan … a memorable start! Even the way to Osh was “memorable” … but I will tell you about it the next post.
Now I’m still in Osh. Can you imagine? I crossed deserts, rivers, hills and mountains but a couple of days ago I twisted my ankle in a stupid stair step, result: an ankle like a tennis ball … c’est la vie … la vie en rose.
Stef and Elvis (my ankle)
che meravigliosa esperienza! Credo dovresti scrivere un libro per far sognare anche noi. Un abbraccio!
Ciao Nicola! eh sarebbe bello ma poi chi lo compra??? tu piuttosto, mandami una bella foto della famigliola al completo! spero state bene un abbraccio
Take care neh!
Moni! come è conoscere il finale di GoT??? e i vichinghi? e Jamie? … spero stai bene… lavora!! un bacio
PS: Christoph Bärtschi asks if the people are also pink! 🙂
Stefiiii! Che bello sentirti! Qua tutto bene! Si lavoraaaa..ho preso una slozzata oggi in feld! Hahah
Cmq GOT, ohhhhh fighissimoooo!
Jamie e i Vikingi nn ho più guardato..hahaha..ma ora arriva l‘inverno freddo, avrò qlc da fare!
Miss you!! Tanti baci!
Somebody can please explain to Christoph that in NO MAN’S LAND there are not people? …and he will suffer there because there is nobody to speak with… 😉 blabla bla blabla bla bla blabla ….