Wow, me and Bicio are traveling in time. The rural campaign took us 100 years back in time. And now, after about 60 km southward, we reached Gyumri and we dived in the 70′-80’s. Even the dress style of people recalls those times and everywhere: LADA, LADA and LADA … I love this car.
All these buildings are empty.
Gyumri and his people left me some sadness. The second Armenian city has been almost completely destroyed by the earthquake in 1988… the signs are still visible on the facades of the houses but also on the faces of the people … The town and its inhabitants seem to be abandoned to themselves.
The weather was not on my side so I stopped in Gyumri for 3 nights. Ophelia, the guest house keeper took care of me and she even read me the cards … Ophelia, the mapreader … wow!
In Gyumri many roads are in these conditions … yes, the dog is looking at me.
In Armenia the road conditions are really bad … I quickly realized that the tour across the country villages I wanted to do, could become a torture … the best route? The highway. Positive in biking on the highway is that you never miss the exit. It was an “exotic” experience for me and clearly I was hoping …
… to not end up like this poor dog …
But, no danger: Armenian drivers are very respectful. After almost 90 km I began to feel a bit tired. But where to put the tent? Here it is all flat and there is HIM! How do I do if HE sees or feels me? HE … he is Gampr, the Armenian Gampr … and I assure you that when you see one of them running towards you, you start pedaling fast … very fast. These dogs can kill a bear and they can use my legs as a toothpick.
One day I met one very close. I could feel his warm humid breath on my right leg … everytime I think about it I burst out: the people on the roadside were all stuck like stockfishes with their opened mouths looking at the scene, maybe waiting to see who would emerge victorious … Gesùgiuseppemariamaddalena it was sooo close!
So I decided to stop in the next village and ask for permission to place my tent in the garden of somebody. I reached Sharam … and when you see this:
… you found this:
Arthur, Alex, Ani, Susanna, Bareck and Karim thank you so much for your lovely hospitality and shots of vodka 🙂
The tent remained in the backpack (again) and Bareck (on the back … I’m a poet) and his lovely family hosted me for one night. I spent a beautiful evening with these wonderful people.
Finally, I was on the way to Yerevan (1.2 Mio. inhabitants) … and there it is, with the mount Ararat on the right.
I admit that getting into the city made me increase the adrenaline: biking in the intense traffic, on a road of a total of 6 lanes, has made me climb a bit up the ego.
In Yerevan, me and Bicio we found us in the years 2000 … and I was almost feeling at home … almost.
Now I’m still in the capital waiting for the Iranian visa. Am I bored? Not at all! I will tell you more in the next post.
Un abbraccio, a presto
Stef
Vardzia was just what I needed: tranquility and peace. Even Nazi, the owner of the hotel was THE person I needed. She was cuddling me with her natural products like jams, honey, cheeses and teas. I think that telepathy with some people really exists. Some tourists asked me if I can Georgian … No, I can not! But me and Nazi we understood eachother perfectly. I stayed there 3 days. 
Finally I was at the Armenian border. Wet and cold I made my way between the waiting trucks. A couple of stamps and I was in another reality. A completely different (and very difficult) language, friendly but very reserved people. The border policeman told me that I had not chance to find an accomodation in Bavra … he was right: I didn’t found an accomodation, but a lovely family … again! Asja is only 17 but she speaks fluently English and she has a big heart.
Soon she will start the university in Yerevan, therefore she has to leave her mother and brothers in the farm in Bavra … while I look at her and at her books stacked in the kitchen I can not stop thinking about how lucky I was during my studies … yes Stef, your life is simply wonderful and you have to savor every moment.
The first night, in my sleeping bag, I was simply incredulous about what was happening to me: “All this in a single day? … really?? … WOW!”
The roads are not so bad. Some craters and slopes up to 10% do not leave a moment of respite to Morena and Priscilla (my legs). The adventure begins when (without GPS) I take the off track. Completely alone, I enjoy every moment, even the most demanding … and there you can sing loudly … very loudly …
In a mountain road I meet a shepherd. As soon as he saw me he jumped. With one hand on his heart he started to grumble me in Georgian … I got it all! The literal translation: “Have you gone off your head? That thing is not a car!! You don’t see? This is not asphalt! And where do you want to sleep? Jesus! Here there are the wolves!! Aaaahuuuuuuu, aaaahhuuuuuu! (like Shakira in “She Wolf”). You want to make me die!?” … I admit that Morena and Priscilla have put the turbo-plus, but what a laugh! … Aaahuuuuuu!…
At the restaurants the wait can be infinite, but once you are served the palate rejoices and the wallet too. It’s all cheap and delicious. When I can communicate with some of them they ask me where I come from: “I’m from Switzerland”… no, they don’t know about Switzerland, let’s try with “Roger Federer!”… Their faces relax and a smile illuminates them: “aaah beautiful place!”
