After the Pamir and the adventurous experience at the Peak Lenin base camp I really needed rest and nutritive food … I could feel my ribs and in my dark tights I was looking like a spider.
It is in Sary Mogol that I decide to stop for a couple of day. I couldn’t wait one minute anymore and I entered in the first restaurant in the village.
I went in the kitchen to ask if it was possible to eat. I knew it. I knew very well the risk I was taking. The condition of the kitchen was a disaster, but believe me that at that moment I didn’t care at all. When I eat the first piece of this:
in my mouth happened this:A celebration for my gourmet papillae, an explosion of flavors! So delicious …
… one of the worst diarrhoea I ever had.
I needed a pharmacy, a room with private bathroom and “clean” food … I needed to reach Osh. Why I didn’t took a taxi? Because it was impossible for me stay happily sitten for hours. At least by bicycle I could stop when and where I wanted in case of emergency … every 10 km there was an emergency.
I was literally lying on my bicycle with terrible cramps. I had just to move a single muscle to fill my pants … D o n o t m o v e! … La donna NON è mobile (the woman is NOT fickle) would had Pavarotti sing… I told you that the way to Osh was memorable! Yes, cyclingtouring is also this.
Despite the inconvenient I was trying to enjoy the beautiful landscapes, the wildness, the prairies surrounded by colorful mountain. Horses, sheep, cows everywhere and the lovely hospitality of kyrgyz people who always traited me as a queen.
Finally in Osh I gain strength and weight! I was a habitué at the magazine and at the restaurant near the hotel. Thanks to me they will go on vacation to Barbados for Christmas this year.
I was ready to continue my journey when … TRACK! I twisted Elvis, my ankle, at the Sulayman mountain when I was admiring the view of the city. Why Elvis? Because I can do this:
I had no choice: not moving for at least one week … la donna NON è mobile. After the two weeks in Osh my legs were rigid and heavy … the first two days of pedaling were a hassle.
Yes, my legs were tired, but my soul and enthusiasm not! Kyrgyzstan is a b e a u t i f u l country and the autumn colors gave me the impression to ride in an endless postcard. Pura vida!
I’ve been riding between hills and cypresses. I entered in coniferous woods, climbed snowy passes, visited arid canyons, cycled along beautiful green rivers and deep blue lakes … perfume of sweet apples, fresh air on my face … wow! And I just saw very little of what the country offers.
Unfortunately there is a sad phenomenon: the alcoholism. Plenty of men with purple faces and uncertain gait, bodies lying on the floor like puppets after a show and saturated alcoholic breaths perceptible at meters of distance … “There is not job, so they drink“, I have been told.
Actually I see a lot of work … like for example cleaning the streets from all the litter that they thrown out of the car window. Unfortunately it is not so easy and, again, the feeling of frustration and impotence is strong.
The problem is that these persons jump in their car and drive … I’ve seen some places where there have been accidents … shattered cars like Chinese vases … and for sure shattered life, families and beloved ones.
The slowness of the bicycle allows you to be more attentive to what surrounds you. You travel in wonderful places, but you also perceive the issues of the people, of the places. I assisted at marvelous scenes full of love, but also facts that left me angry and a sense of frustration for a while.
Six months. If I think about what I’ve experienced, the people I’ve met, the ones that helped me, the incovenients, the choices to take, the difficult situations, the laughter, the tears … wow! All so intense. If you ask me if I miss something of my old life … Well the answer for now is NO.
And now? The initial plan was fairly clear: after Kyrgyzstan I would enter in Kazakhstan and then go to China … but have I told you that often I follow my heart and instinct?
made me consider other destinations (issues for importation rules of animals) and … hey, but why didn’t I think about it before!?
I try to keep the cat and cycling from Patagonia up to Peru (or up to Colombia?). Yes, I know, I’m crazy! Yuuuhuuu!! I’m super excited and looking forward for the next adventure.
Now I’m in Karakol preparing all the bagages an packing Bicio. I will fly from Bishkek to Buenos Aires the 10th of November. Hasta luego!
Stef & Kitty
p.s. soon new pictures in the gallery