Again a lot of time has passed. Some were thinking that I’m not motivated anymore to write on my blog, but the reason is another: the internet connection here is just terrible. I’ll try to resume some of the thousands things I experienced in the Tierra del Fuego.
We had a great time in Rio Grande with Graciela. I was the only tourist and I stayed there one week (sure!! no rush for me!). Red wine, cheese and a lot of laugh … with her stories I was laughing till the tears were flowing on my face … Gracias Graciela! … but no time for tears, I had to continue.
Approaching Paso Bella Vista
I was avoiding as much as possible the Ruta 3. Very bad reputation and recently a sad accident happened. A chinese cyclist lost his life … a pensioned man who was already about 10 years on the road.
Only 79 km separated me from the chilean border … in normal conditions it would take me 1 day ride … it took me 3 exhausting days. Flat landscape, relatively good road condition BUT the wind coming from the side was slowing me down … A LOT … and the rain was not helping.
Shelter in the Argentinian Pampa
In some parts I had to jump out from the saddle and push. I had the impression that I was pushing forever and when I checked my cyclometer … what? only 800 m???
In other areas I had to stop, plant my feet firmly on the ground and with all my body keep my bicycle still … here they are the 80 km/h gusts announced by the weather forecast … Gesùgiuseppemaria. The kitty was good. In its basket it’s very well protected from wind, cold and rain.
I couldn’t go forwards. I was tired and cold. I think I was looking miserable … I was feeling miserable. Nobody around. Impossible to pitch the tend. Pampa.
Approaching the Estancia La Despedida, Argentina
Disarmed I just wanted to cry … come on! What would it change? No time for tears, keep going and push till the next Estancia (Josephine is so tough). Fortunately I always found a shelter.
Shelter at the Estancia La Despedida, Argentina
Finally I entered in Chile. Finally some forests. Beautiful magnificent enchanted trees. We had really very nice nights out there and a very relaxing new year eve. “Happy new year Dimitri. Enjoy your meal.”
I had almost no food anymore and even no money, so can you imagine the joy when 3 Argentinean guys stopped and offered me pizza, sopa paragualla (sort of tortilla), crackers and 1 apple: gracias chicos nunca los voy olbidar! I was almost crying for the joy … yes, exactly: no time for tears. Eat and go!
Cameron, Chile
In Chile the doors were a bit more open when I was asking a repaired place to pitch my tent. “Why do you want to pitch your tent if I have space in my house?“. Ximena and her lovely family welcomed me warmly. Shower, food, laundry … such a lovely soul.
Ximena’s family and happy tourist exhausted by the wind.
The next day we looked at each other in the eyes … both we were crying and wishing each other a lot of luck. Yes, because also her family, few days before, quitted everything to start a new life in Cameron. No time for tears, the way is still long.
Bahia Inutil, Chile
Also José and Teresa didn’t hesitate to open the door when completely wet and cold I knocked at their door. Teresa. Such an enigmatic character. I’m sure: even the best actress in the world cannot interpret such a character … no no, even Maryl Streep cannot! But I’m so thankful to this woman.
They and their 30 cats never had somebody at home … I was the first one. “Teresa I don’t have money but I can work and help you for whatever”. “No se preocupe señorita” (Don’t worry Miss) and the meal was served:
Cordero asado … delicious!
Teresa was not speaking much. We were in the kitchen drinking coffee and listening fantastic chamamé (typical latin music). “You don’t feel lonely here?”. “No, I like to be alone … and I have my 30 cats“. She was so happy when I told her I’ll never forget her super-incredible-delicious cuisine. She smiled.
The equation is simple: no wind = rain. No rain = wind. At the Bahia Inutil (useless bay) I wanted to see the penguins … yes, incredible expensive. A tourist-trap, BUT when will I see free pinguins again? …why they chose that place? The most exposed to the wind. 
Even the cat was getting crazy with the wind. I tried to find nice and quite places for our breaks. Like that day at the beach. Suddenly it assumed a position like this:
What is wrong? Nooooooooo a seal! A curious seal at about 20 m from us … so incredible. Probably it will see never again a cat. It swimmed away.
The Patagonian island was almost done. I was happy. Don’t get me wrong: beautiful landscapes BUT the wind ruined a bit the party. For the first time I was really really tired.
Estancia La Fortuna
Again I can say: I did it. It was not easy. I think that the Tierra del Fuego was the most difficult part of my trip till now. I did it. Another experience that I will never forget.
In difficult time just keep going … everything is temporary.
With a boat we left the island and we arrived in Punta Arenas (Cile). Some rest and back on the saddle … the adventure continues … and the wind too!
Un abbraccio
Stef, Dimitri and few tears
